Day 5 saw us heading south from Udaipur into the state of Gujarat. We had been warned of certain militarized zones to avoid, marking them with a large ‘X’ on the map, attempting to chart a route of safe passage that also didn’t involve driving through the capital city of Ahmedabad.
Google maps, however, had other ideas, and we realised that if we wanted to actually make it to South India at some point in the next nine days, we couldn’t dilly dally on roads heading east or west. We had to go South, baby, towards the sunshine!
“We’ll just skirt around Ahmedabad,” we assured ourselves. A city of a mere five million or so, surely, if we just stuck to the outskirts we’d be right… wouldn’t we?
Things started getting a little crazy as we got closer to the metropolis, and Kim’s time behind the ‘handles’ was up (we rotate drivers every hour and give Sunny, and us, a break for ten minutes or so). It was then my turn at the helm, and before long, the ‘outskirts’ of Ahmedabad looked rather like the ‘inskirts’, and though that is definitely not a real word, I’m sure you’ll understand after this:
(About 29 seconds in, I stall…)
Then just when we thought the worst was over, Sunny pulled the plug and stopped in the middle of a tangled mess of traffic. Though it was a rather stressful moment, it was also quite funny to draw such a crowd in the middle of the road:
These guys gave us a push start afterwards which had us giggling all the way to the entrance of the expressway where we were stopped and told to turn around, as auto-rickshaws were forbidden.
So although driving through Ahemedabad wasn’t the brightest idea we’d had, it did lead to a funny experience, and at the very least I can put “Driving an auto-rickshaw through peak-hour Indian city traffic” on my list of list of new skills.
We made it to a small town called Nadiad for the evening, pulled over the rickshaw as the sun was setting, and asked the nearest person where the closest hotel was. Of course, he spoke perfect English, jumped on the back of his friend’s motorbike and said “follow me”, leading us through the maze of streets buzzing with early evening traffic.
We pulled up at a basic hotel with cheap rooms and a place to park Sunny for the night. We had our photos taken with the kind strangers (which we were totally used to by then, we are going to be all over Indian Facebook after this journey!), and bid them goodbye.
Day 6 was, well, a day that could only be described as hard core. We hit the road at 6 am, and spent over 12 hrs on the grueling highways of Gujarat, clogged with trucks and dust.
As Kim said, there was “just no reward!” for most of the day, except for the fact that Sunny ran well and got us to the town of Daman at nightfall, situated on Gujarat’s southern coast. We were hoping for ‘beach resort’ but we found ‘seedy little town’ instead. We checked into the first decent hotel we could find which happened to be quite plush (by Indian standards), so we happily paid over the odds for hot showers and comfy beds with almost-clean sheets.
We dined at the fancy on-site restaurant, where over-zealous waiters annoyed us with their impeccable service; insisting on silver serving our Aloo Jeera, when all we really wanted to do was shove it down our gobs, chug cold drinks, and belch like the hard-core truckers we then believed ourselves to be.
Gujarat – You gave us quite a hard time; and though we didn’t buy any souvenirs, we’ll always remember you as the place we acquired our trucker street cred.






{ 17 comments… read them below or add one }
You paint such a vivid picture!
Enjoy Goa for the limited time you have there!
Thank you so much Carmel!! We are so close now, headed to Cochin in the morning!
That looks like fun! Love the videos and your impecable driving. One question though, what do they do with all the women?
That one has me stumped
Home cooking and cleaning I s’pose
Big it up to the HARDCORE ladies!!!!! Who are managing to overcome many obstacles on this journey. That traffic was craaaazy! I’d forgotten how mental it can be over there! And 12 hours sitting in a rickshaw is INCREDIBLE!!!
Hope you managed to get a well deserved rest…. even though the place was a little yucky! Please be careful, won’t you… Watch each others back. I know all these men are sweet & helping you out, but just be on your guard babes!
Are you headed for Thane and then Mumbai & taking the coast road??
Love you more than all the colorful trucks on the road… HORN PLEASE!!!!
xxxxxx
Thanks Phillipa! We avoided Mumbai like the plague and are on the home stretch now!
Classic. Talk about a comedy on wheels.
She sure is Margaret! Though sometimes we want to cry instead!!
I remember taking incredibly long bus rides from Pinaji(capital of Goa) to Pune, Pune to Ahmedabad, and then Ahmedabad to Udaipur. They were all super-long, maybe 12 hour overnight bus journeys if I remember right. I can’t remotely fathom all that in a rickshaw in the opposite direction. Pune and Ahmedabad are gigantic and chaotic. Driving through those cities had to be ridiculously nerve-racking. All I can say is: Great job so far!
Thanks Mike! Yep and I lucked out by being ‘on shift’ through both those cities! Let me tell you, my nerves were pretty shot in the end!
I think the guy with the white long sleeved top and the necklace took a shine to you Sarah! That smile says it all.
Ha! He was too funny
Hi Sar that driving was amazing you did such a good job. When you broke down the guys must have though it was there lucky day. They looked very happy to help 3 ladies in distress.
Thanks Mum, love you, yes we are always quite popular xxx
Loving the videos and the journey. Glad sunny treated you girls well on day 6. Your girls are hardcore
Wow good work Sarah I am so impressed with you girls!
Thank you Suzy! I am pretty impressed with us too, we are so close now! xxx